Sizing at Spencer Archive
Vintage sizing is inconsistent by design. A size 8 from one decade may fit nothing like a size 8 from another, and even garments from the same period can vary considerably by brand, cut, and construction.
For that reason, Spencer Archive assigns each garment a Spencer Size based on how the piece actually measures and fits today, rather than relying on the number printed on the original label.
Spencer Size
The Spencer Size is the primary size shown on our site and used for shopping and filtering.
It is a standardized modern U.S. size estimate based on the garment’s measurements, construction, intended ease, and stretch. We do not simply convert the original label into a modern size.
Spencer Archive Size Reference
| Spencer Size | Modern US | Bust | Waist | Hip |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| XXS | 000–00 | 30.5–31.5" | 24–25" | 33.5–34.5" |
| XS | 0–2 | 32.5–33.5" | 26–27" | 35.5–36.5" |
| S | 4–6 | 34.5–35.5" | 28–29" | 37.5–38.5" |
| M | 8–10 | 36.5–37.5" | 30–31" | 39.5–40.5" |
| L | 12–14 | 39–40.5" | 32.5–34" | 42–43.5" |
| XL | 16–18 | 42–44.5" | 35.5–38" | 45–47.5" |
| 2X | 20–22 | 46–49" | 39–42" | 49–52" |
| 3X | 24–26 | 52–55" | 45–48" | 55–58" |
| 4X | 28–30 | 58–61" | 51–54" | 61–64" |
This is a body-measurement reference, not a garment-measurement chart. Spencer Size is assigned using the garment’s actual measurements, construction, stretch, and intended ease. Always use the measurements listed on the individual garment as your best fit reference.
Vintage / Tagged Size
When a garment has an original size label, we preserve it in the listing as the Vintage / Tagged Size.
That size is part of the garment’s record and can be useful context, but it does not determine the Spencer Size. A skirt labeled vintage size 12, for example, may measure closer to a modern Spencer Size S.
Measurements
Every garment is individually measured. Measurements are taken flat and relaxed in inches unless otherwise noted.
Depending on the garment, we record measurements including pit to pit, waist, hip, shoulder, sleeve, rise, inseam, total length, and leg opening.
Because fit is personal, we recommend comparing these measurements with a similar garment you already own.
How we assign Spencer Size
We use one consistent modern U.S. sizing reference, then consider how the garment was actually designed to fit.
A fixed-waist skirt is assessed differently from an oversized silk blouse, an elastic-waist trouser, a fitted dress, or a menswear shirt intended to be worn loosely. When a garment falls between sizes or has unusual proportions, we use the measurement most important to fit and include a fit note where useful.
If we do not have enough reliable information to assign a Spencer Size confidently, we leave it unassigned until the garment can be measured or verified.
A note on vintage fit
Bodies did not change because clothing labels changed. Sizing standards did.
Manufacturing practices, silhouettes, grading systems, and ideas about ease have shifted repeatedly over time. Spencer Size is our way of making garments from different brands and decades easier to shop together while preserving the original sizing information that came with each piece.
Spencer Size tells you how we believe the garment fits today.
Vintage / Tagged Size tells you what the garment originally said.
Measurements give you the information to decide for yourself.